Microneedling for Acne Scars: Does It Really Work?
What the research shows and what you can expect based on your scarring type.
Quick answer: Yes, microneedling works for acne scars. It's particularly effective for atrophic (depressed) scars, like boxcar and rolling. Most clients see at least 50% improvement in scar appearance after a series of treatments, based on long-term clinical studies. For hypertrophic or keloid scars, Skin Pharm takes a case-by-case approach since any procedure that induces dermal injury carries some risk of worsening raised scarring, though some studies have shown improvement across scar types.
What is microneedling?
Microneedling is a minimally invasive in-clinic treatment that uses tiny needles to create controlled micro-injuries in the skin, triggering collagen and elastin production to smooth scars, fine lines and texture.
At Skin Pharm, microneedling is performed by board-certified providers. While at-home tools on the market claim to deliver similar results, true microneedling can only be performed by a trained provider. The treatment creates hundreds of tiny controlled wounds in the skin, and any open wound carries a risk of infection. Performing microneedling in a sterile in-clinic environment minimizes those risks.
That controlled injury is also what makes the results so dramatic. When the body experiences any kind of skin injury, it kicks collagen production into overdrive to repair the area. Microneedling triggers the same response on purpose, which is why it's also called collagen induction therapy.
Over time, that renewed collagen production translates to:
- A reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
- Firmer, more youthful-looking skin
- Improvement in the appearance of stretch marks and scars
- A decrease in the visibility of sun damage
- Fewer breakouts
The different types of acne scars
Different types of acne can lead to different kinds of scars, and recognizing them helps you decide which treatment is right for you. Acne scars fall into two categories: atrophic and hypertrophic.
Atrophic scars are depressed scars that form when the skin doesn't produce enough collagen during healing, leaving indentations. The three subtypes are icepick, boxcar and rolling.
- Icepick scars are narrow, deep, V-shaped atrophic scars that resemble a puncture from an icepick.
- Boxcar scars are wide, oval or round atrophic scars with sharply defined vertical edges.
- Rolling scars are broad atrophic scars with sloped edges that give the skin a wave-like, uneven appearance.
Hypertrophic and keloid scars are raised scars that form when the body produces too much collagen during healing, creating firm bumps above the skin's surface.
| Scar type | Appearance | Prevalence | Responsive to microneedling |
|
Icepick |
Narrow, deep, V-shaped punctures | ~60-70% of atrophic scars | Yes, but best paired with adjunct treatments |
| Boxcar | Wide, oval or round with sharp vertical edges | ~20-30% of atrophic scars | Yes, responds very well |
| Rolling | Broad, sloped, wave-like depressions | Least common atrophic scar | Yes, responds very well |
| Hypertrophic | Raised, firm, pink scars within wound border | Less common | Case-by-case (consult required) |
| Keloid | Raised red or purple scars extending beyond wound | Less common | Case-by-case (consult required) |
How effective is microneedling?
The effectiveness of microneedling depends on the type of scar being treated. It's particularly effective for atrophic (depressed) scars like boxcar and rolling, which result from too little collagen during healing. For hypertrophic or keloid scars (the raised kind), Skin Pharm takes a case-by-case approach. Any procedure that induces dermal injury carries some risk of worsening raised scarring, but it's not a blanket no. Some studies have shown improvement across all scar types, which is why a consult with a Skin Pharm provider is the best way to determine the right approach for your specific skin.
The good news: long-term studies have followed the effectiveness of microneedling for acne scars, and the results are strong. Scars of all types, not just acne scars, improved by at least 50% after a series of microneedling treatments. That makes it one of the most effective options available for treating scars without more invasive cosmetic surgery.
The actual effectiveness of microneedling for acne scars is most noticeable after multiple treatments. Skin Pharm recommends a series of 4-6 sessions spaced 4-6 weeks apart for optimal acne scar results, with most clients seeing visible improvement after their second or third session.
How to prep for your microneedling appointment
A little prep makes a big difference in your results and recovery. Skin Pharm recommends:
- Skip waxing in the treatment area for one week before your appointment.
- Pause topical retinoids 24 hours before treatment to reduce sensitivity.
- If you have a history of cold sores, let your provider know in advance.
- Schedule your appointment at least one week before any big events, since redness, swelling and peeling can be visible during that window.
- To minimize bruising or bleeding, Skin Pharm may recommend stopping aspirin, NSAIDs or fish oil three days before and after treatment (always check with your primary physician before discontinuing any medication).
How does microneedling work?
One of the most common questions about microneedling is how it actually works. The idea of creating tiny wounds to encourage collagen production is proven and effective, but it can sound intimidating - especially if you're wary of needles. Here's exactly how a microneedling treatment goes at Skin Pharm.
Plan on roughly an hour at the clinic. Your provider starts by thoroughly cleansing your skin and applying a topical numbing cream, giving it time to fully take effect. That way, you get all the benefits of microneedling for acne scars (or other concerns) without the discomfort. Most clients describe the sensation as light pressure or a soft scratching feeling, nothing painful.
After your skin is numb, your provider applies a serum packed with antioxidants and hydrating ingredients. As the needles puncture the skin, they pull that serum deeper than topical application alone could ever reach.
Then it's time for the actual microneedling. Your provider uses a medical-grade automated microneedling pen to apply the tiny needles to the surface of the skin. Needle depth is customized to your goals and the type of scar being treated, deeper for boxcar and icepick scars, shallower for fine lines and surface texture. The full treatment range is 0.1 to 2.5mm.
During and immediately after treatment, you may notice pinpoint bleeding. That's the normal result of the controlled wounds, and it stops once the procedure is complete.
What about PRP or PDGF?
Some patients choose to enhance their microneedling treatments by adding PRP, or platelet-rich plasma. PRP is a concentrate of growth-factor-rich platelets isolated from your own blood, used to accelerate healing and amplify collagen production. PRP is drawn in-clinic by your provider, then placed in a centrifuge that separates out the golden platelets. This is often referred to as “liquid gold” because it's both gold in color and incredibly beneficial for your skin. PRP can be applied topically before and during microneedling. It's highly effective for maximizing your microneedling results.
Skin Pharm also offers microneedling with PDGF (platelet-derived growth factor) or Sculptra as add-ons, depending on your goals. Your provider can recommend the best combination at your consult.
What is the healing process like?
Immediately after your microneedling treatment, you may notice some redness, swelling or sensitivity. This is temporary and typically resolves within 24 hours. Some peeling or dryness can start 3-5 days after treatment as your skin heals. You'll go home with the Skin Pharm Jetsetter Kit, our post-procedure kit that pairs Foaming Cleanser to keep skin clean without adding irritation with Recovery Lotion to support recovery and lock in hydration. Use the kit for the first 1-3 days while your skin is healing.
While your skin heals, skip picking, scratching or peeling the treated skin and let it shed on its own. Avoid extensive sun exposure and tanning. If you're outside, use a broad-spectrum SPF 30+ and reapply every two hours.
It's safe to return to makeup after 24 hours. Wait 5-7 days before restarting exfoliants like retinol (including Skin Pharm's Night Watch retinol drops), glycolic acid, lactic acid and salicylic acid, or until your skin no longer feels dry, tight or sensitive. Once your skin is back to baseline, Skin Pharm clients see the best ongoing results by pairing microneedling with a consistent home routine: Crystal Clear clarifying pads to keep pores clear, Youth Serum hyaluronic acid serum for daily hydration and Night Watch retinol drops a few nights a week to keep collagen production humming.
Initial results are typically noticeable within 1-2 weeks of treatment, and they continue to improve over time as you complete your series.
Who is microneedling not right for?
Microneedling isn't recommended if you have:
- Active acne breakouts or cystic acne
- Active rosacea flares
- Current or recent (within 6 months) Accutane use
- Active skin infections (including cold sores in the treatment area)
- Open wounds or recent sunburn on the treatment area
Your provider will also review your full medical history at your complimentary consultation.
If you have a history of keloid or hypertrophic scarring, microneedling isn't an automatic no, but it's a case-by-case conversation. Any procedure that creates dermal injury carries some risk of worsening raised scarring, so Skin Pharm recommends a consult to determine what's right for your specific skin.
If you're pregnant or breastfeeding, Skin Pharm encourages clearance from your OB-GYN before treatment.
The bottom line on microneedling for acne scars
Microneedling for acne scars is an effective, minimally invasive way to soften their appearance, particularly for atrophic acne scars like boxcar and rolling. For hypertrophic or keloid scarring, results are more individual, which is why a consult with a Skin Pharm provider is the best starting point.
Ready to find out if microneedling is right for your skin? Book a skin consult with one of our board-certified providers.
Frequently asked questions
How many microneedling sessions are needed for acne scars?
Skin Pharm recommends 4-6 sessions spaced 4-6 weeks apart for acne scars. Deeper or more extensive scarring may require additional sessions or a combination treatment with PRP.
Does microneedling hurt?
No - a topical numbing cream is applied before treatment, so most clients only feel mild pressure or vibration. Many clients find the treatment relaxing. Areas like the forehead and jawline can feel slightly more sensitive.
How long is microneedling recovery?
Most redness, swelling and sensitivity resolves within 24 hours. Mild peeling or dryness can start 3-5 days after treatment. You can return to makeup after 24 hours and most normal activities the same day, though Skin Pharm recommends avoiding strenuous exercise or sweating for 24 hours.
How soon can I wear SPF after microneedling?
Sun protection is especially important post-treatment, so reach for a gentle, broad-spectrum SPF 30+ as soon as your skin can tolerate it (typically the day after treatment). Reapply every two hours when you're outside, and avoid tanning while your skin heals.
Is microneedling safe during pregnancy?
Yes! That being said, if you're pregnant or breastfeeding, Skin Pharm encourages clearance from your OB-GYN before treatment.
Is microneedling safe while taking or recently stopping Accutane?
Microneedling isn't performed within 6 months of finishing Accutane (isotretinoin), because the skin's healing response is altered and the risk of scarring is higher.
How much does microneedling cost at Skin Pharm?
Pricing varies by clinic and depends on whether PRP or PDGF are added. Skin Pharm offers treatment packages that bundle a series of sessions at a discounted rate, which is the most cost-effective way to complete a full acne scar protocol.
SOURCES:
Microneedling: A Comprehensive Review | PubMed (nih.gov)
Review of applications of microneedling in dermatology | PubMed (nih.gov)
Microneedling of Scars: A Large Prospective Study with Long-Term Follow-Up | PubMed (nih.gov)
